The mountain lodges are part of a long tradition in Finnmark. The first lodges were built in the late 18th, early 19th-century as stopovers on the post route across the mountain plateau. Turf huts were built for the post couriers to spend the night on the various routes. In around 1870, lodges were built by state decree. This meant that the tenant had the rights to the fishing, trapping grounds and forests in a specific area in return for providing lodgings for travellers. The lodges that were built were very simple; two-roomed huts as a rule. In the one-room lived the tenant and his family while the other room was reserved for travellers. In this room of the lodge there was to be chopped birch wood, and brushwood and reindeer skins in the beds which were reserved for "the travelling officer of the crown and persons of similar rank". "The travelling officer's "vappuser" (a man with local knowledge) and persons of similar rank" were to be given shelter in the tenant's kitchen….

Before the war no less than between 40 and 50 mountain lodges were built in Finnmark. All the trekking routes in what was a county with no roads at all had lodges at intervals calculated at one day's march. The same applies today. Many of the lodges have been taken over and are kept by the descendants of the former tenants of state lodges. All have been considerably modernised and extended to live up to the standards of the modern traveller. And of course, the modern-day "vappuser" or his equal has no need to sleep in the kitchen! That said, however, the lodges still have the character of a home that takes in travellers. The mountain lodges possess homeliness, friendliness and the sort of hospitality you only find in Finnmark.

Jergul Asttu

photo: Jergul Asttu
(Britt Kramvig)

Jergul Asttu was established by state decree in 1920 close to Ávjovári siida (village), an old Sami thingstead. The lodge is beautifully situated on the Iesjohka, a salmon-rich river that forms part of the Tana river system. Jergul is 38 kilometres from Karasjok, just off the E92 towards Guovdageaidnu/Kautokeino. It has been run by the same family for three generations and has been upgraded to offer every modern facility.

In addition to meeting rooms and a dining room, the lodge has attractive rooms of varying sizes, each with a kitchenette, shower and toilet. Jergul Asttu can accommodate 35 overnight guests. The hospitable landlord and landlady offer to arrange lávvu camps on the plateau, and river boat trips with guides on salmon-rich rivers, snowmobile trips and other activities, all depending on the season. Elements of sunny culture are a natural part of what Jergul has to offer its guests.

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Neiden mountain lodge

photo: The lavvu at Neiden mountaing lodge
(Skolefotografen AS)

Neiden is the place where the paths meet and is first and foremost an Eldorado for lovers of outdoor living. The lodge is situated on the banks of the Neiden River, one of the most heavily populated fishing rivers in Finnmark. Neiden mountain lodge is 50 kilometres from Kirkenes and has 14 log cabins with a total of 64 beds. There is also a cafeteria but visitors can, if they so wish, have their meals served in a large lávvu, which can seat 50 people. Should you wish to enjoy the peace and quiet, Neiden mountain lodge has 6 smaller, though well equipped remote cabins, each of which can sleep 4. The landlord and landlady will help you to work out a hiking routes and organisers various types of activity for their guests.

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Polmakmoen guesthouse

Polmakmoen guesthouse presents itself as the place for mystery, magic, wilderness experiences and Arctic food - and with good reason. No one is ever quite the same after encountering the hostess, Ester Utsi. She is an incredible storyteller, and is as such an important conveyor of the Sami cultural heritage. In addition to this you can find the tender loving care both body and soul can need - by Ester firing up the sweating shed or the outdoor bathtub. This whirlwind of a hostess also provides healing and aromatic massages. Polmakmoen was are not at one of the state's mountain lodges, but was a private overnight stopping place for officials. The guesthouse has been in operation since the early 20th-century. Ester Utsi's grandmother opened this place for clergymen and other public officials who visited Polmak. The story has it that she sat on the step and refused to budge when Neiden was burnt to the ground. Whatever may have happened, today's visitors are always welcome at the guesthouse.

In addition to this Ester has erected a star-shaped gamme (turf hut - see photo) where she serves traditional food in new wrapping. The meal is a journey through the spiritual life of the Tana man. First you are served with a "happy Tana salmon ", followed by a "Tana man's pride", naturally ending up with "Queen of the plateau". Satisfied and contented, her guests then retire to bed in a modern furnished gamme. The guesthouse can sleep 22 people. Your hostess will help you to arrange both sea fishing in a ’Nordlands’ boat and river fishing in what is perhaps the best known of all salmon fishing rivers, the Tana River.

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Nedre Mollisjok mountain lodge

photo: Fishing at Nedre Mollisjok
(Nedre Mollisjok fjellstue)

The main building at Nedre Mollisjok mountain lodge was built recently. The landlord and landlady Per Edvard and Randi can accommodate an overall 54 overnight guests and are thus able to cater for individual travellers as well as groups. The facilities are tip top, with a dining-room, lounge with an open fire, a modern kitchen and decent sanitation. In addition to this they naturally have a traditional gamme (turf hut) and a wood-fired sauna, both of which are at their guests' disposal. The facilities are perfect for a successful state. How about arranging your next meeting or conference at this beauty spot? You will be able to combine it with an experience of outstanding natural beauty and the activities the Plateau has to offer.

The lodge lies in the mountains, between Karasjok and Alta. There are no roads out this far. Other means of transport have to be used, such a sea plane or helicopter. In the winter you can get there on skis or drive in by snowmobile. In the summer you can hike over the mountains or get there by mountain bike. Reasons other than modern requirements were valid in the days when the lodge was built. Per Edvart’s family settled up here in the mountains because of the "call of the grouse". This means you will be staying in the midst of some of Sápmi’s very best grouse country. On top of this the lodge is right next to Iesjokka, one of the best-stocked waters in Finnmark. For anyone with an interest in fishing and shooting, this is the place!
And for those who need the peace and quiet to allow the day to pass as slowly as it does – all we can say is that you will be very welcome.

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